Seafood

Hot and Spicy Roasted Dungeness Crab

February 18, 2010 by Wayne Garcia

The start of Northern California’s Dungeness crab season, which runs through June, heralds the arrival of one of our finest local foods. With their sweet, flaky meat, these local crustaceans are pretty awesome all on their own, simply boiled, and sucked right of their shells. But like so many foods, crabmeat is also a marvelous canvas on which to experiment with all sorts of fun flavor combinations, while still retaining the unmatched essence of the crab itself.

During the peak of the season, crabs are seemingly ubiquitous. And, indeed, the pre-boiled offerings found in supermarket display cases taste really good and, since fishmongers will also crack and clean them at no extra charge, are about as close as it gets to the ultimate fast food.

But with just a little extra (and fun) effort, you can raise the bar on your crab experience by purchasing ultra-live and feisty creatures directly from fisherman. Crabs purchased fresh off the boat will not only be as close as you can get to plucking them from the sea yourself, they will be as sweet, firm, and fresh flavored as you’ll ever eat. (They’re also something of a bargain compared to store-bought specimens, normally selling for about one-half to two-thirds the price per pound.)

For those living on the San Francisco Peninsula, Half Moon Bay is an excellent source, while in the North Bay residents flock to the boats at Bay Bodega Bay. (For more info, check out my article in Edible San Francisco magazine as well as another recipe of mine for a “Locavore’s Cioppino.”

Hot and Spicy Roasted Dungeness Crab, w/ St. Helena Olive Oil Habanero Extra Virgin Olive Oil
This recipe is based on a favorite we’ve been making for many years, but presented with a new twist. Rather than using the dried chili flakes we normally do, our heat will come SH Olive Oil’s Habanero Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Infused with Habanero chilis, the oil brings an extra-fiery kick to the dish. Note, however, that some may find it a bit hotter than they’re used to. In that case, we recommend cutting the Habanero oil with SH Olive Oil Manzanillo Extra Virgin Olive Oil.

1 Fat and happy Dungeness crab (about 2 pounds)
1 – 2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
1 teaspoon dried fennel seeds
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
Zest of 1 lemon, roughly chopped
Organic Grey Sea Salt, a pinch or two to suit your taste
(and a tablespoon for the crab boiling water)
2 tablespoons HABANERO EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL (see note above)
Rustic bread (for sopping up the juices)

If you purchased an already cooked and cleaned crab, skip the next two steps.

If you purchased your crab off the boat, upon returning home immediately bring a large pot of water to boil (even if you’re not roasting it until later the same day, it’s best to cook the crabs while their kicking as much as possible). Add the salt, and, using tongs, carefully grab your crab from the backside and plunge it deep into the boiling water. Cook for about 7 minutes per pound (or 15 minutes for a two-pounder). I prefer to err on the side of slightly undercooked, and you’ll also be roasting the meat.

Let the crab cool down. Turning it over, pull off the claws and legs, and pry the underbody away from the top shell. Remove the lungs and other bits from the main body, rinse under cold water, and either slice or carefully break the body in half. Going one or two at a time, wrap the legs and claws in a kitchen towel, and smack with a kitchen mallet—hard enough to crack, but not so hard as to pulverize. Place all the crab parts in a bowl.

Preheat oven to 450°

Place the remaining ingredients in a small blender, and whirl for 10 – 15 seconds until well chopped and combined. Taste for salt and heat, and adjust to your taste.

Pour the marinade over the crab, and toss it all together using your hands. Make sure all the crab pieces are nicely coated with the marinade.

Arrange the crab on a sheet tray, and roast for approximately 10 – 12 minutes, until the crab is a nice golden brown.

When cool enough to handle, eat with your hands, and sop up the juices with chunks of nice hearty bread. Oh, and have a few paper towels on hand, this dish is delightfully messy!

— serves two

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Riffing on Organic Spicy Heirloom Pasta Sauce

November 13, 2009 by Wayne Garcia

Fight it as much as we might, this year’s tomato season is kaput. To be sure, supermarkets and even local farmers’ markets still have tomatoes to sell, but even the best examples from mid-November pale in aroma and flavor compared to those from the peak of the season.

If you canned your own it’s time to start using them—and popping open a jar will bring back Proustian blasts of a summer barely past. But even if you are a home-canner, there may be times when turning those preserved Early Girls or San Marzanos into a sauce is simply more than we can deal with after a long day.

I’ve already written about the joys of a well-stocked larder, and St. Helena Olive Oil Company’s Organic Spicy Heirloom Pasta Sauce is another great item to add to your arsenal of options. The addition of garlic, chiles, and spices give it an extra nice kick.

For the ultimate in simplicity and time management, you may simply fold it into cooked pasta, grate some Parmesan over the top, and plop in front of a favorite movie with a nice glass of red wine—a young Barbera, say? Although the following recipes require a bit, but not too much more time, the rewards are well worth it.

Clams, bacon & rapini
This simple one-pot dish offers layers of flavors and textures, and can be made in about the same time it takes to boil a pot of pasta water.

1.5 lbs. Manila clams
4 strips bacon
1 cup packed, rapini, chopped
1/2 cup (or more to suit your taste) ORGANIC SPICY HEIRLOOM PASTA SAUCE
2 tablespoons plus a drizzle of SEVILLANO VARIETAL CALIFORNIA EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
1/4 cup water or chicken broth
ORGANIC FLEUR DE SEL

Immerse the clams in a bowl of cold water, drain and repeat a few times to rid of any residual sand. Coat the bottom of a pot with the olive oil, cut the bacon into ribbons, and cook over medium heat until just brown. Remove the bacon and let rest on paper towels to absorb excess oil. Place the Spicy Heirloom Pasta Sauce in the pot and stir into the oil, cook for a few minutes over medium heat, then fold in the clams, the rapini, and the water or stock, raise the heat to high, and cover. Cook until all the clams have opened, discarding any that remain tight lipped. Gently toss the mixture together, and spoon into bowls, being sure to get plenty of the spicy broth. Drizzle with a swirl of the oil and a twist of fleur se sel.

— serves 2 as a main course, 4 as a starter

Roasted Winter Squash
This lovely vegetable dish accented with a kick of spicy sauce and Parmesan makes a
perfect accompaniment to pork and poultry.

1 Squash (butternut or another heirloom variety, about 1 to 1.5lbs
1 small yellow or red onion, chopped
1/2 cup (or more to suit your taste) ORGANIC SPICY HEIRLOOM PASTA SAUCE
2 tablespoons plus a drizzle of BUONA VOLONTÀ NAPA VALLEY EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
1/4 cup grated Parmesan
ORGANIC GREY SEA SALT

Preheat oven to 325°
Cut the squash in half and remove the seeds. Slice the squash into wedges, leaving on the skin. Place the squash skin-side down on a roasting sheet. Drizzle with the oil and salt and roast until soft enough to pierce with a fork—about 30 to 45 minutes depending on the size of the squash. About ten minutes before the squash has finished roasting, warm the sauce over low-to-medium heat. Remove the sheet from the oven, spoon the sauce over the squash, and dust with Parmesan. Return to oven, and continue roasting for approximately 10 minutes more, until it all melds together. Remove from the oven, plate, and drizzle over a bit more olive oil and Parmesan.

— serves 4 to 6 as a side dish depending on the size of the squash

Categories: Pasta, Seafood, Vegetables • 1 Comment »

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A Focus on Rare Balsamic Vinegar

October 6, 2009 by Wayne Garcia

Balsamic vinegar is one of those products that, while exotic, appealing, and sometimes very pricey, many of us aren’t quite sure exactly what to do with.

Here are two lovely Mediterranean-style recipes we’ve selected to showcase our rare 19-year-old balsamic vinegar, which we’ve sourced from a tiny artisan producer in Modena, Italy for the past 15 years. The first is an escabeche of white fish, the second a simple dessert of figs, almonds, and ricotta. Exquisite vinegars like this one should be savored in drops, not spoonfuls. In each of these recipes only a slight drizzle is called for to finish.

For more information on all things balsamic, go to let’s chat.

All recipes make 4 servings
Escabeche of White Fish
A delightful warm weather dish, escabeche is simply a poached or fried fish that is then marinated before serving — in Spain, chicken, rabbit, and pork are also prepared in this fashion.

Our version, which emphasizes sweet and sour flavors, actually uses three of our vinegars: 19-year-old balsamic to finish, and Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon red wine vinegar and 6-year-old balsamic for the marinade. For maximum flavor, we suggest allowing the fish to marinate for one day before serving.

4 fillets of white fish (use a firm-fleshed fish such as snapper)
½ cup all purpose flour
3/4 cup St. Helena Buona Volontà Napa Valley extra virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
4 garlic gloves, thinly sliced
½ cup dried currants
1 small sprig fresh rosemary, chopped
2/3 cup St. Helena Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon red wine vinegar
1/3 cup St. Helena 6-year-old balsamic vinegar
Freshly ground black pepper
Fleur de sel
A drizzle of St. Helena 19-year-old balsamic vinegar

Dredge the fillets in the flour, shaking off any excess, and set aside. Place ¼ cup of the olive oil in a large skillet, and heat over medium-high heat to approximately 350°. Fry the fish in batches, approximately five to six minutes per side. Transfer to a plate covered with paper towels to drain excess oil, and sprinkle on both sides with fleur de sel.
Wipe clean the skillet, discarding any leftover oil, heat the remaining oil over medium-low heat, and sauté the onion and red pepper flakes for approximately ten minutes, or until the onion is soft. Add the rosemary, garlic, and currants, and cook for a few minutes more. Now add the vinegars, bring to a boil, and return the fish to the skillet. Cook for one scant minute and turn over for another. Remove skillet from the heat, grind over a twist of black pepper, taste the marinade, and adjust seasoning to taste.

Transfer the mixture to a baking dish and allow to cool. Cover and place in the refrigerator for one day. Bring back to room temperature, and sprinkle with a few drops of 19-yeard-old balsamic before serving.

Figs with ricotta, almonds, and balsamic
8 ripe Mission figs
½ cup sheep’s milk ricotta
16 roasted, unsalted almonds
A drizzle of St. Helena 19-year-old balsamic vinegar

This is one of those gloriously simple desserts that rely completely on the quality of the ingredients to reach its fullest potential. Choose ripe, heavy figs whose skin is splitting and on the verge of bursting with sugar, a high quality sheep’s milk ricotta, which is generally lighter as well as more complex than cow’s milk, and freshly roasted unsalted almonds.

Slice the figs in half, lengthwise. Place them in a bowl with a few spoonfuls of the ricotta, add the almonds (chopped or whole, depending on your aesthetic preference), and finish with a drizzle of our 19-year-old balsamic vinegar. Heaven awaits!

Categories: Seafood • 1 Comment »

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