The start of Northern California’s Dungeness crab season, which runs through June, heralds the arrival of one of our finest local foods. With their sweet, flaky meat, these local crustaceans are pretty awesome all on their own, simply boiled, and sucked right of their shells. But like so many foods, crabmeat is also a marvelous canvas on which to experiment with all sorts of fun flavor combinations, while still retaining the unmatched essence of the crab itself.
During the peak of the season, crabs are seemingly ubiquitous. And, indeed, the pre-boiled offerings found in supermarket display cases taste really good and, since fishmongers will also crack and clean them at no extra charge, are about as close as it gets to the ultimate fast food.
But with just a little extra (and fun) effort, you can raise the bar on your crab experience by purchasing ultra-live and feisty creatures directly from fisherman. Crabs purchased fresh off the boat will not only be as close as you can get to plucking them from the sea yourself, they will be as sweet, firm, and fresh flavored as you’ll ever eat. (They’re also something of a bargain compared to store-bought specimens, normally selling for about one-half to two-thirds the price per pound.)
For those living on the San Francisco Peninsula, Half Moon Bay is an excellent source, while in the North Bay residents flock to the boats at Bay Bodega Bay. (For more info, check out my article in Edible San Francisco magazine as well as another recipe of mine for a “Locavore’s Cioppino.”
Hot and Spicy Roasted Dungeness Crab, w/ St. Helena Olive Oil Habanero Extra Virgin Olive Oil
This recipe is based on a favorite we’ve been making for many years, but presented with a new twist. Rather than using the dried chili flakes we normally do, our heat will come SH Olive Oil’s Habanero Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Infused with Habanero chilis, the oil brings an extra-fiery kick to the dish. Note, however, that some may find it a bit hotter than they’re used to. In that case, we recommend cutting the Habanero oil with SH Olive Oil Manzanillo Extra Virgin Olive Oil.
1 Fat and happy Dungeness crab (about 2 pounds)
1 – 2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
1 teaspoon dried fennel seeds
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
Zest of 1 lemon, roughly chopped
Organic Grey Sea Salt, a pinch or two to suit your taste
(and a tablespoon for the crab boiling water)
2 tablespoons HABANERO EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL (see note above)
Rustic bread (for sopping up the juices)
If you purchased an already cooked and cleaned crab, skip the next two steps.
If you purchased your crab off the boat, upon returning home immediately bring a large pot of water to boil (even if you’re not roasting it until later the same day, it’s best to cook the crabs while their kicking as much as possible). Add the salt, and, using tongs, carefully grab your crab from the backside and plunge it deep into the boiling water. Cook for about 7 minutes per pound (or 15 minutes for a two-pounder). I prefer to err on the side of slightly undercooked, and you’ll also be roasting the meat.
Let the crab cool down. Turning it over, pull off the claws and legs, and pry the underbody away from the top shell. Remove the lungs and other bits from the main body, rinse under cold water, and either slice or carefully break the body in half. Going one or two at a time, wrap the legs and claws in a kitchen towel, and smack with a kitchen mallet—hard enough to crack, but not so hard as to pulverize. Place all the crab parts in a bowl.
Preheat oven to 450°
Place the remaining ingredients in a small blender, and whirl for 10 – 15 seconds until well chopped and combined. Taste for salt and heat, and adjust to your taste.
Pour the marinade over the crab, and toss it all together using your hands. Make sure all the crab pieces are nicely coated with the marinade.
Arrange the crab on a sheet tray, and roast for approximately 10 – 12 minutes, until the crab is a nice golden brown.
When cool enough to handle, eat with your hands, and sop up the juices with chunks of nice hearty bread. Oh, and have a few paper towels on hand, this dish is delightfully messy!
— serves two
